Grilled Fish Sandwich

Like migrating geese, for a few months Americans exit the home and cook outdoors. Chicken, burgers, hot dogs, sausages, steaks, pork chops, ribs, brisket, lamb chops, lamb leg, swordfish, salmon, shrimp, vegetables. Anything and everything lands on the grill. Even if it works better on the stove, when in doubt, grill the thing.

The first time I manned a grill was in summer camp. We returned from the commissary with our hot dogs, which we speared, rolled in molten marshmallow, coated with ants, and thrust into the flames. And this was only the start of our adventures in fusion grilling.

Grilling is most often portrayed as a festive, communal weekend event: guys with aprons, a cooler of beers, and so on. The grill is used during the week as well. It’s mess-free, easy, and pleasant to cook outdoors. Such a commonly performed cooking method, calls for equal consideration as the sauté or braise.

The problem with the grill is that it’s seductively simple. Throw it on. Pull it off. Eat. But we’re not cavemen, and while you can’t beat the pure flavor of, say, grilled swordfish, let’s extend our minds a bit and consider the condiment.

To stray from the standard barbecue sauce is perhaps scary, but you have to leave home sometimes. Anyhow, with grilling, thankfully, you can go home again, and slather bbq sauce on your food as desired. But grilled meats and fish are a blank slate and invite experimentation.

Rich, tangy, herby, and easy, our condiment works especially well with fish: we use it as a spread for a sandwich. Play around with fish varieties, but swordfish, bass, and snapper are well suited to the grill. Especially if you’re in the Cape in the summer during the heart of bass season.

Attempting to grill lake fish rolled in Frosted Flakes, I can’t imagine I envisioned writing about condiments for the grill. But at least I’ve evolved (sort of).

(Note: the usual angst about grilling fish-sticking-applies, but if you oil the grates you should be okay. Also, don’t fiddle with it. Let the fish cook before you flip. This will promote searing thereby helping the fish release from the grill. Oiling the fish prior to grilling should also ease your pain. In the end, you’re making sandwiches, so it doesn’t have to look great.)

Grilled Fish Sandwich with Buttermilk Dressing

Makes at least 6 sandwiches

½ cup buttermilk
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons red onion minced
1 tablespoon kalamata or black olives, chopped
2 tablespoons tarragon, minced
2 tablespoons parsley, minced
2 pounds swordfish or bass, skinned
Olive oil
Beefsteak tomato, thinly sliced
Romaine or iceberg lettuce
Portuguese or Kaiser rolls, very lightly toasted
Salt and pepper

1. Place sour cream in a medium bowl. Whisk in buttermilk. Adjust if you like a thinner or thicker texture. Fold in capers, red onion, olives, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate.
2. Rub grates thoroughly with olive oil and season fish.
3. Grill until done. It should take about 4 minutes per side over a hot direct flame and remove to a platter. Thinly slice or break up into chunks. Spoon dressing on bottom half of bun followed by lettuce, tomato, fish. Close and eat.