Sandwich Wednesday: Fried Fish (the right way)

Are there dishes we can make at home that are actually superior to those you might order while dining out?

Anthony Bourdain posits the appeal of  “food porn” is due to our desire to spy on something beautiful which we’ll never be able to create. Content to observe, we accept our bystander role.

(A reasonable theory, though not, I think, when it comes to sports, where it’s perfectly fine to accept one’s genetic inferiority: I’ll never be 6’6”, 250 and throw a ball 60 yards on one knee, but I like watching those who can.)

Sometimes, chefs con us into thinking our efforts are in vain. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the absurd fancy hamburger trend. First it was the stuffed burger, (foie gras) and now it’s the proprietary blend of ground beef sections known only to chef and butcher. The former goes for $50, the latter $30, both are cooked in pure fat and would probably come to rest in my bowels like a greasy softball.

I’ll take a burger made at home with good meat laced with 20-25% fat, cooked to medium rare in a hot pan, and settled on a bun with ketchup (no fancy sauce), lettuce, tomato, and thinly sliced red onions.  In short, a food we can cook at home on par with that of the pros.

One dish I know is better homemade is fish and chips, or, for the purpose of this post, a sandwich of fried fish minus the chips, between two pieces of bread.

Americans have never gotten the hang of fried fish. Before we consider the reasons, let’s examine the perfect filet of fried fish. It should be slightly more than golden, perhaps 6 inches by 3 inches, and salted. The crust should be crisp and puff out from the flesh but still stay with it when broken apart. The flesh should be flaky and not at all dry.

In other words, unlike the version I don’t enjoy on Cape Cod in the summer. You’d think they could fry fish on the Cape, but universally what you get is a tasteless, off-white lump of cod, half-heartedly floured and fried, most likely in a pan with too warm oil. The other American version goes in the opposite direction: heavy fried breading encasing a meager, crummy fish filet of curious origin. Tilapia from Thailand? Tigerfish from Madagascar?

Now, the Brits, of course, have mastered this stuff, which got me wondering why we haven’t. I mean, their food is notoriously lousy, so why can’t we best them on the simple fish and chip? Or rather, the fish-I don’t care for those chips.

To generalize, based on zero research, the Brits seem to love anything baked in a pie crust: fish pie, mincemeat pie, shepherd’s pie, bakewell pudding (dessert), Cornish pasties (mincemeat), Cheshire fidget pie (bacon and apples), Lemon Chess pie, leek and mushroom pie, potato pie. If I could bake my kid into a pie they probably eat that too.

The common denominator is, in my view, texture. Across the pond, they love soft food. Mince it, fold it into a thick sauce, overcook it, bake it in a soft crust, and you’ve got a winner. They even have something called “mushy peas”, which we do too, I guess. I think it means pureed, or at least crushed, peas, which is fine, but I’m not sure we’d term them “mushy”.

Fish, too, is inherently soft, hence the deft British touch, and, fried, it is by nature, encased in a crust. For once, though, that crust is delightfully crispy. (Maybe I shouldn’t generalize.)

In addition, because Americans don’t eat enough fish, we treat it poorly in the kitchen. We make a mean fried chicken but a lousy fried fish. (Chicken, it should be noted, isn’t soft.) American chefs-who of course, cater to our tastes-do a  lousy fried fish (another generalization, there’s a fish place a block away which is supposed to *be pretty good). It’s a shame, but not really, as it means you can beat the pros with this dish and feel comfortable in your foodie skin.

Because lean fish isn’t as assertive as, say, a chicken thigh, it has to be cut thick, about half an inch. Cod, which is dense and mild, works well, though it’s said that turbot is an excellent frying fish.

As a final note, we turned this into a sandwich using white bread. The bread does break down, which makes a tasty, messy handful. If you prefer a sturdier sandwich, burger buns hold up better. We recommend the bottom slice of bread or bun be spread generously with simple mayo or a mayo-based sauce. As anyone who’s ever had a BLT knows, mayo adds an even richness to the sandwich. The other condiment is more of a dressing, which should be drizzled over, adding a bit of acid without drowning the fish, much like the classic malt vinegar you might get in a chip shop.

Fried Fish Sandwich
Makes 2 sandwiches

3 cups all purpose flour
1 bottle stout beer (such as Guinness)
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1 pound cod filet, skin off
canola oil for frying
salt
4 slices white bread or 2 sesame seed burger buns
romaine lettuce
tomato vinaigrette (see below)
roast pineapple salsa (see below)
tartar sauce (see below)
spicy raisin mayo (see below)
spicy remoulade (see below)

1. Trim the fish and slice in two even portions about ½ inch thick. You may have to slice lengthwise.
2. Add 2 cups of the flour and the yeast to a large bowl. Whisk in the beer to form a pancake batter consistency. Let sit for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat 3 inches of the oil in a large pot to 350 and add the remaining 1 cup of flour to another bowl. Line a tray with paper towels and have a cooling rack ready.
4. Dredge the fish pieces in the flour until completely coated, patting off any excess, then dredge in the batter. Slip into the oil and fry until deep gold. It should take about 6-8 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to turn in the oil occasionally.
5. Remove with the spoon to the prepared tray to remove the grease, then place the cooling rack over the baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper
6. To serve, spread bottom slice of bread or bun generously with either plain mayonnaise, tartar sauce, or raisin mayonnaise. Layer with romaine. Top with a hot fish filet. Dress with one of the remaining condiments (tomato vinaigrette, remoulade, or salsa), close and serve.

Tomato Vinaigrette

1 beefsteak tomato, chopped
2 tablespoons white vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Add the tomato and vinegar to a blender. Adding the oil in a thin stream, puree to get an emulsified vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.

Roast Pineapple Salsa

4 dried ancho chiles
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup pineapple, ¼ inch dice
small handful cilantro, chopped
2 scallions, chopped
salt and pepper

1. In a medium sauté pan over medium low heat, toast the chiles until aromatic, 5-10 minutes. Meanwhile, bring several cups of water to boil.
2. Seed and stem chiles, place in a medium bowl and cover with boiling water. Let sit at least 20 minutes then strain, reserving water in a bowl.
3. Place chiles on cutting board and halve with a sharp knife. Using the back of knife, scrape the soft pulp from the insides of the skins. It should look like a soft paste. Reserve.
4. Add the olive oil to a medium pan over medium high heat. When hot, add pineapple and cook until lightly browned. Stir in chile paste and let the mixture simmer for a few minutes, adding some of the reserved chile water as necessary if it dries out too much. You’re looking for a chutney consistency.
5. Stir in the cilantro and scallions and season.

Tartar Sauce

1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup finely chopped dill pickle
3 tablespoons chopped green onion
1 tablespoon drained capers
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1. Whisk all ingredients together and let sit, refrigerated, for at least half an hour.

Spicy Remoulade

¼ cup cider vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
¾ cup canola oil
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup scallions, chopped finely
¼ cup parsley, chopped finely
¼ cup parsley, chopped finely
1 tablespoon cayenne
salt and pepper

1. Add the vinegar and mustard to a blender or food processor. In a slow stream, add the oils until emulsified. Turn into a bowl and stir in remaining ingredients. Season with salt and pepper.

Spicy Raisin Mayonnaise

1 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon crushed chiles
1 tablespoon sugar
½ cup golden raisins
1 cup mayonnaise
salt and pepper

1. In a small pot over medium heat, add the first three ingredients. Whisk until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Remove from heat. While still warm but not hot, add raisins and let steep 10 minutes. Strain, reserving the liquid.
2. To a small bowl, add the cold mayonnaise, whisk in the raisins and a few tablespoons of the spicy liquid to taste. Season and chill.