“The Comfort of Apples” by Bob Townsend October 5, 2010

Philip Rubin admits he didn’t know much about apples before he began doing research for the new cookbook he wrote with his wife, Lauren.

“I grew up in New York City,” Rubin said. “I have the least agricultural background you could imagine.”

But a day trip spent picking apples at a nearby orchard with their son, Henry, led the Rubins to wonder, “What do we do with them?”

The answer became “The Comfort of Apples: Modern Recipes for an Old-Fashioned Favorite” (Lyons Press, $19.95).

The Rubins met at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City and own the Manhattan catering company, 2 Peas & A Pot.

They put those backgrounds together to present nearly 100 recipes that go way beyond apple pie into bold savory realms with the likes of crostini with clams, bacon and apples and miso-and-apple-marinated hanger steak.

“There are apple cookbooks out there, but you see the same sorts of recipes for pies and cobblers,” Rubin said. “I thought the subject deserved a contemporary take.

“Apples lend themselves to all kinds of dishes. It’s one of the few ingredients you could use to create a complete cookbook from starters and entrees to sides and desserts, and even condiments. Of course, we use apple cider in a lot of the recipes.”

“The Comfort of Apples” also includes a short history of American apple growing, and tips for cooking with apples, including equipment to make the process easier and more creative.

“We love cutting devices like mandolins and peelers,” Rubin said. “And we use melon ballers to neatly remove the core and create interesting decorative shapes.”

The book includes a chart of apple varieties broken down by flavor (“sweet,” “sweet-tart,” or “tart”) and use (“eating” or “pie”).

While apples are available year-round, nowadays, Rubin said autumn is the season to find the best and most unusual varieties at orchards and farmer’s markets.

“When you focus on one ingredient, like an apple, it really opens your eyes to the absolute difference between seasons,” Rubin said. “An apple in season is just so much better in every way.”

http://www.accessatlanta.com/atlanta-restaurants-food/the-comfort-of-apples-661584.html